I'm finding that for varieties sake I really like alternating between the city and nature (more to escape the city than nature) so it was refreshing to head to the Blue Mountains after a few days in Sydney. Their called the Blue Mountains because of the blue haze you can see, especially in the sun. It sort of comes across in some of the pictures, but it was really obvious being there. Mandy (from the overnight cruise in Doubtful Sound) drove me up Wednesday morning and showed me lots of lookouts and little trails along the way. We stopped at some botanical garden and walked through the different levels looking at all the scenery and flowers. My favorite were the pink and yellow ones in the picture above, but I can't figure out their name. I was staying in the town of Katoomba and out first stop there was Echo Point lookout to get a good view of the Three Sisters rock formation. The legend behind the name starts with three sisters who fell in love with three brothers from another tribe. When they were forbidden to marry, the three brothers declared war on the other tribe. A witch doctor turned the girls into stone when their lives where endangered in the battle, but couldn't change them back after he himself was killed. Those three took one for the team; they're pretty impressive to look at. After that we hiked the short trail to Wentworth falls, another impressive site. We ended with a quick lunch at this delicious little quirky shop called the Yellow Deli. Soup and salad and I was off to my hostel to check out my new Blue Mountains map.
I met a Swiss guy while I was studying my trail map and we decided to meet the next morning and hike around together. We started at the Three Sister's trail and went down the 900 steps of the Giant Stairway to get into the trees below. And then… we were bushwalking! We decided to head west and take the trail to Scenic World, which had two gondolas, a small trail system and the scenic railway, advertised as the world's steepest railway. One gondola connected the neighboring ridges together, while the other went down into the trees, past the railway. We walked for about an hour to where the trail connects with the railway, talking about our lives at home and what we were doing now. Michael was studying agriculture so he got a work visa and spent four months in Australia working on a farm. He was in the Blue Mountains doing a little traveling before he went back home to finish school and start working. At the junction we took the Furber Steps trail back up to the ridge line. These steps weren't as steep as the Giant Stairway, but we had the same amount of elevation to make up, so we (I, at least) got a pretty good workout in. We walked along the ridge line and back to the main street, where our hostel was. We got back around two and I had full intentions of going out again after lunch, but my lazy side got the better of me. I ended up Skyping with friends and family and got to see baby Greta Sue fly through the air like Super Baby (Nice, Ben. I loved it. Hilarious!), so it was totally worth hanging out at the hostel.
That night I went out for drinks with two of my roommates and had a great time getting to know them and trying the local brew. Liz was in Australia, from England, completing her residency. She's been training all over the world, from Nepal to India and Australia. Super smart, very witty and full of good stories. She reminded me how much I admire sarcasm. She told me all about her experiences working in a Nepalese hospital and gave me some pointers for the trip. She had both negative and positive experiences from the country and taught me a lot that I didn't know about the culture. Dave was a 22 year old guy from Jersey who had just finished his undergrad in Buisness and was moving to Seattle when he got back to work for Boeing. Also held his own in the conversations and story telling. Again, interesting people everywhere. Awesome night that ended in the bar giving us each free pies on our way out the door.
I went hiking solo the next day and again started at the Giant Stairway. This time, instead of going west I walked east to the Leura forest. I heard a lot of different birds, but the only ones I really got a good look at where some Superb Lyrebirds. They're about the size of a pheasant and have these long , multi-multicolored tail feathers. One that I saw was digging around in the dirt, looking for food (I think) and the other was just walking along, minding his own business. The forest didn't take long to reach, and the trees became more dense and moss covered. There were a few more waterfalls in the area, and I stopped at one of the picnic tables and took a quick break. What goes down must eventually come up, so after walking through the rest of the forest, I headed up the Federal Pass to get back to the trail to the Prince Henry Cliff Walk along the ridge line. I kept walking past the lookout for the Three Sisters for about another half hour and made my way to Scenic World to ride the world's steepest railway. It actually was really steep and fast, and I held on for dear life and to keep myself from tumbling into the back of the people in front of me. I didn't have time to walk the trail at the bottom of the railway, so I walked up and over the train and got in line at the very first car so I'd have a view on the way back up (I was almost in the very back car on the way down). I waited for about 15 minutes for the train to make it's way back and had an awesome view the whole way up (except for when we were in the tunnel). I hopped onto the gondola to cut a little time off my way back, grabbed my stuff and walked down to the station to catch the next train into the city.
I'm glad I made it to the Blue Mountains and got to experience the "Bushwalking." The elevation gain and loss is much less than at home or in New Zealand, but you can only have so bad of a day in the mountains, right? It's still partially rain forest, so there's moss and ferns everywhere, and those same lush greens that were in New Zealand were present here also. I wish I had had time to make it out to Tazmania, a region known for it's hiking, but the Blue Mountains were a nice contrast to the city and an excuse to be outside.
I met a girl in New Zealand who recommended I stay at the YHA (youth hostel) in an area called "The Rocks." It was a little more expensive than some of the other options, but turned out to be well worth the extra few dollars. It was right in between the Sydney Harbor Bridge and the Opera House. There was also a third story observatory where you could sit at one of the tables, lounge on one of the lawn chairs and sunbath, or just look out over the city.
I did a little research my first night there and started off early the next day with a tour at the Sydney Opera House. The outside (and inside) of the buildings is amazing. I hadn't realized that it was several different structures all connected together. There's two main halls set side by side and seven venues total. You can see an Opera, a ballet, a symphony or a play. Sadly, I didn't see anything, but it's on my list for next time! We started on the bottom level and worked our way up and around the back of the outside with a beautiful view of the harbor and the bridge. We timed the tour well and were able to walk into each of the theaters on the tour because no rehearsals were going and there weren't any people working in them. I thought the Concert Hall, used for symphonies and orchestras (I think) was the most impressive. The seats were made from certa mattress material so people could be comfortable in them for several hours. The small round, flat disks you can see above the stage are sound barriers to let the sound bounce back down to the stage and out to the audience. The red side panelling was very dramatic and the inward slope of the walls naturally directed your attention to the stage. We walked through to the opposite side and into a few more rooms before watching a movie reflected off the outside of the building. It was all about the Danish architect and the Opera House's construction. It was projected to take three years and ended up taking 17. Reminds me of a certain government project I used to work on… :)
Outside of the Opera House start the Botanical Gardens and I wondered through them and found a nice shady spot to sit and have some lunch. I passed the government house on my way and a rhino statue for the "Save the Rhino" campaign they have here in Australia. There are rhinos all over the city - camo and polka dot and painted with every color and design imaginable. I also saw White Ibis' (birds) all over the park. I thought they were pretty neat, with their white bodies and long black beaks, but, apparently, they're a big nuisance in Australia and the locals don't love them. They didn't hesitate to jump on vacated tables and pick at whatever was left on the table (the Ibis, not the locals), so I can see how they aren't all that loved. I still thought they were cool. After lunch and some quality time with Oliver Twist, I took a bus to Bondi beach for a little sunbathing. Note to self, and a helpful hint for all of you, make sure your hands aren't covered in sand before you squirt sun block into them. Exfoliation wasn't exactly what I was going for. Regardless, the sun was out and it was a wonderfully hot day for playing in the ocean. I laid out, read a little more and got in the water when it got too hot (which was often). After about three hours I collected my things and did the Bronte beach walk. It wasn't very long, but I started just as the sun was getting ready to set, so the views were incredible. I'd still take the mountains over the ocean, but I can absolutely see the appeal of living near the beach! I got some fish and chips from a small, hole in the wall restaurant in Bronte and took the bus back to my hostel to wash off all the sand and sun block.
The next morning I got up early and took the ferry across the river to the Tongariro Zoo. I scanned the map after taking the gondola to the entrance and noticed that there was a seal show starting in 15 minutes. I made my way over and sat about mid way down the rows (close enough to get some pictures; far enough away to not get wet). We watched Myla the Australian Sea Lion, Michi the Californian sea lion and Tathra the New Zeland fur seal impress us all with their tricks. Myla loved to shake hands, Michi could jump out of the water and touch the yellow balls over the tank with his nose and Tathra liked to show off his whiskers by balancing things on them. Very talented seals!
I walked from the seal show to the Tasmanian devil house to watch their feeding. They're hard to take pictures of because they move around so much. They only time they stood still was while they were eating. They kind of look like a cross between a bear cub and a rodent, at least they do to me. I learned, that something like 80% of Australia's Tasmanian devils have been killed off by a spreadable cancer that is only found in their species, dogs and some kind of hamster. They transmit it to one another when they're feeding and fighting and their immune systems don't recognize it at all, so it grows totally unchecked. They die usually with in a year because the tumors block their mouths and/or throats and they starve. So sad and fascinating all at the same time. I didn't know cancer was contagious and transmittable that way. It completely deletes some of their chromosomes. So cool (yes, I'm a science nerd). I talked to the keeper for a little while more before heading out to look at all the other animals. It had started raining by this point, so I made my way to the kangaroos, emus and crocodiles to make sure I got all the local animals in. Last stop was the koala bears, where I paid a little extra to get to go into the enclosure and take a picture with two of them. Polly and Patty were both asleep in trees. Apparently they get drunk of the eucalyptus leaves when they ferment in their stomachs. Silly koalas. (I read that the eucalyptus thing isn't actually true, but I also read that it was, so I'm going with it!) I didn't get to touch them and it was hard not to, they looked so cuddly and friendly. The rain didn't let up, and I didn't have a jacket, so I walked past a few more animals and headed back to my hostel.
My next day back in Sydney, Tim, another American traveler I met in New Zealand, and I walked across the bridge and checked out the amusement park on the other side (the one with the big clown face at the entrance). The walk across is 1.5 miles, so it didn't take too long, but there was lots of dodging and weaving with all the tourists, runners and other pedestrians. And the sun. Have I mentioned how hot it is in Sydney (all but the one day I went to the zoo)? So hot and lots of humidity. Beating down on you all day long. I don't know how you Australians do it.
The amusement park was only a short walk from the end of the bridge had the general carnival rides - bumper cars, a ferris wheel, fun house mirrors, clowns walking around and lots of games where you shot water guns or hit things on the head with mallets to win oversized stuffed animals. Neither of us really had room for stuffed animals, so we walked to the end and back, peeking in here and there, before making our way back across the bridge to where our hostels were.
Sydney is an fun and lively city. A little expensive, but lots to see and do, even while just wandering through the streets. It seemed huge after the "big city" of Auckland and reminded me a lot of Boston. Hard not to love it when it's tied to another city I have great memories from.
I'm not even sure where to begin; I have so many great memories of New Zealand. Every activity I did, I loved. The Motatapu Track was probably my very favorite, but Doubtful and Milford Sound, ice climbing on Fox Glacier, hiking the Tongariro Crossing and the glow worm caves are all close seconds. And the people - from hostel employees/owners to roommates to other travelers I met on the road or out and about. So many great and inspirational stories and lives. People you genuinely feel lucky to have interacted with. It reaffirmed that we're all, no matter where you're from or what your story is, just doing our thing, taking our paths, trying to figure out life and how it all fits together.
New Zealand was like home in many ways, the language and way of life (and food) being most obvious. The Westernized countries I've visited all have a similar feel. That's actually one of the reasons I picked New Zealand as a starting point - close enough to get my feet wet in the world of solo traveling, but far enough away that it would give me a real feel of what it would be like. There was definite comfort in being somewhere like home. But, it also wasn't home, and I was reminded of that here and there. While there's great freedom in traveling alone, there's also just you to look out for yourself. Not that there aren't good people everywhere, but it's not the same as the support system you spend years building at home.
I'm not sure how I'm going to top it and I can't wait to go back. I guess I'm missing the point with the "topping it comment," I'm just hoping that all the other countries I visit are as magical as this one. Bring it, rest of the world, because New Zealand definitely impressed.
Rotorua is a little town with lots of geothermal activity (hot springs, mud pots, etc). To be honest, I wasn't planning on stopping there, but I wanted to hang out in that general area for a few more days to try and catch a friend of a friend, so I made my way over. It was about time to do some laundry and other mundane tasks anyway. I started that and made my way to a used book store to kill time. I perused the sale items until I found Oliver Twist for $4.99 (I was very proud of myself for the cheap find; books are super expensive here!). Book in hand, I went back to my hostel and hung my clothes on the line before making my way to the free park, a block away, to wander and read. The park was huge and had hot pools, mud pots and even little fenced pool sections to stick your feet in. I walked around for about an hour, through all the winding paths, before finding a tree to sit under and read (Oliver Twist is great - I'd totally recommend it).
I went back to my hostel about two hours later to get ready for the Maori cultural show I had bought a ticket to. The Maori are the indigenous polynesian people of New Zealand. They came over in canoes and have all sorts of interesting mythology, history and traditions. We got picked up from our hostel at six and had about a ten minute drive to the area. When we got there we were ushered into a large, tented dining room and sat down in our assigned seats around one of the 15 or so tables. We waited for everyone to get there and then our guide walked us through what was going to happen throughout the evening. He gave us a brief Maori history lesson and we introduced ourselves to figure out how many different countries people were from (14). After the intros, a Dutch man was reluctantly pressured into being our chief and was given the task of introducing our "tribe" to the Maori later in the night. Outside the tent was a small village and forest and we walked a path through the trees to a stream. We were waiting only a few minutes when we heard some chanting off in the distance and saw a canoe filled with Maori men coming up the water. They all had the traditional face tattoos (although we later learned that theirs were fake) and chanted with coordinated hand and rowing movements the whole way up and back.
Afterwards we were led to where our Hangi (traditional Maori meal) was cooked - in a large pit in the ground, using hot coals and covers to keep the heat in. Our food had been put into wooden baskets and lowered into the pit. We had lamb, chicken, and sweet and regular potatoes. The meat goes on the bottom, closest to the coals, with the potatoes on top. It takes four hours. I was hungry before I left, so seeing and smelling the Hangi and knowing I couldn't eat it for another hour or so was a little torturous. It was covered in a sheet when we walked up to it, but you could smell it well before seeing it. Our guide and chief uncovered it and the chief tried a potato to make sure it was up to par. After affirming that it was, we were led to the hut where we actually saw the cultural show.
There was a short traditional dance before our (very nervous) chief introduced our tribe and thanked the Maori chief for letting us participate in this experience. The Haka, a presentation of dances including war dances, traditional chants and games, followed the introduction. The war dance was pretty intimidating; wouldn't want to go up against one of those guys. They stick their tongues out to let you know they want to kill you and eat you. We also learned about the face tattoos ("mokos" - paint in this instance) and traditions of the tribes. They would make deep cuts on the face using a chisel and fill it with caterpillar ink. They'd re-open the wounds if they started to close since the tattoos where meant to have depth, not just be on the surface. Somehow, they didn't all die of infections. The tattoos symbolized lots of different things - which tribe they belonged to, their land, family, animals and all sorts of other things.
All of it was really interesting and the hour show went by in no time. We walked back to the dining tent and helped ourselves to the delicious hangi dinner. It was set up buffet style and they had added extras that weren't cooked underground (green salad, pasta salad, bread). I ate and talked to the chipper Australians next to me and the Americans, from Ohio, across the table. They were driving through both islands in one week. That's a lot of ground to cover. I felt rushed and I had a whole month. There were a few yummy desserts and coffee after the meal and we sat for a little while longer until we walked back outside, to the river area where the Maori had come up in their canoe, to see the area's natural glow worms. I couldn't really see the ones in the bushes between the cover of the brush and the light from the flashlights of those walking behind us. They did get easier to see, though, as we got to the mini lake that fed the small stream. We turned off our flashlights once we got there and saw the glow worms scattered all around the edges of the water. The caves were a little more impressive, but it was cool to see them in a natural environment above ground also. We took the bus back after that and I went to bed fat and happy from the haka and all the interesting things I had learned about the Maori.
I spent the next day hiking in the Redwood forest on the old logging roads before catching an early morning bus to Auckland, my last stop in New Zealand. Hiking, trees, stops on benches with my book. NZ really is a great place to hike!
My hostel in Auckland was right in the CBD (Central Business District) and I was able to easily walk to everything I wanted to see. I found a walking trail in my Lonely Planet and it led to to side streets with kooky little shops, several parks, by the town hall, into the Auckland Art Gallery and down to the fish markets at the warf. I walked through some of the shops, a beautiful park with lots of trees and through the government house before stopping at a little cafe just across from the art gallery to have a late breakfast. The OJ was a little tart, but it's the fist time I've had eggs benedict since I left home and it was so, so good!
I took the tour of the art gallery to get a sense of the place before wandering around myself. There were five of us on the tour; one was an older couple from Boston (Go Red Sox!). The tour guide was great and she gave us a brief introduction to all of the areas with little stories here and there about the artist, the artwork or the period of different pieces. I walked around for about another hour and got a better look at the Maori and impressionist work especially. There was a also a really neat piece on the deck outside - an extra long bench that is supposed to encourage community and friendship. There were round, raised sections on the bench that would have been a fun mini slide had I been a kid (and it wasn't a piece of art in a museum).
Afterwards I walked around the park behind the museum, through the university that housed the clock tower and old government house (pics above) and made my way to the water. I walked along the warf, stopped at the visitors center to make sure I knew were I was headed, and zig zagged my way to the Auckland Fish Market. The Market was two large buildings connected at the corner. One was a drop off point for the fisherman with the big scales and cranes (my (limited) fishing knowledge comes from the show "The Deadliest Catch") and the other building was the fish market and several small restaurants. I walked around and got myself some dinner - smoked salmon, a fish cake, some sweet and sour fish (not sure what kind of fish, but they were delicious) and some tomatoes. There was a big area to eat outside with lots of tables, so I got myself a beer to wash it all down and had a seat. All of it was delicious and I had enough salmon to nibble on it the next day also. Delicious ending to a great day of exploring.
Yup… I nerded out and went to Hobbiton :) I've read the books and seen the movies so it's been fun to recognize locations in New Zealand. Hobbiton was built for the movies and maintained afterwards as a tourist attraction. They nailed that one - this place is packed from sun up to sun down.
We walked in and were immediately surrounded by Hobbit holes (there's 44 total). There was a lake in front of us and several interconnected pathways that led to Bag End at the top of the hill. Hobbiton is yet another example of the million and one shades of green in New Zealand. All of the Hobbit holes had brightly colored doors and were surrounded by flowers or fruit baskets or little, hobbit sized, wooden lawn furniture. There were even some kid sized clothes on a clothes line. All that was missing was the hobbits themselves.
We wound our way through the path until we made it to Bag End. The green door was slightly ajar, but there wasn't really much inside other than an extra stack of umbrellas (all of the filming from inside Bag End was actually done in a studio). The view from the top of the hill overlooked what we had just walked, the party tree (where Bilbo disappears from) and the Green Dragon Inn (and watering hole) in the distance. The only fake tree in the Shire is the one right behind Bag End. It's not totally fake; there weren't any oak trees in this area, so they cut one down from a neighboring farm, section by section. It got re-assembled behind Bag End with an internal metal frame. They paid college students to hand paint fake leaves and wire them to the tree. 200,000 fake leaves. Good thing there's broke college kids everywhere.
We walked down to the party tree before making our way to the Green Dragon Inn across the water. If you've seen the first Hobbit movie, the Inn is where all the residents of the Shire get together and celebrate. We got a free drink and about twenty minutes inside at the end of the tour. I got the Hobbiton amber ale that's actually brewed there. Those hobbits know how to brew a good ale! I also got second lunch, since I was in Hobbiton and all - a yummy ham and cheese sandwich I sat down with some other people from the tour. One guy was a Lord of the Rings fanatic and knew everything about everything. The other guy said he didn't really like the movies, just felt like he had to see Hobbiton while he was here. The inn had several fireplaces, lots of round windows and fun little decorations on the shelves and mantles. We finished our food and drink and exited the back door. We walked through the lantern decorated courtyard and saw a few more hobbit holes on our way out. Then we were herded through the gift shop and back on the bus.
New Zealand is really using the Lord of the Rings and the Hobbit to their advantage. There's tours all over both islands. I didn't make it to Wellington, on the bottom of the north island, but apparently there's a studio tour there where you can see lots of sets and weapons, etc. Air New Zealand even used the movies as the theme in their airline safety video - lots of hairy feet, adult humor and even a hobbit version of Fabio. Pretty funny! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCbPFHu3OOc)
I kept hearing that I had to see the glow worm caves while I was on the North Island, so I made my way up to Waitomo and booked the Black Abyss tour - repelling, tubing, glow worms, waterfalls - all in a cave. I'll get to the glow worms in a bit.
We started by suiting up at the Black Water Rafting Co. and getting the low down on our four hour excursion. We wriggled into our wet suits, jacket, boots and helmets before getting into the van for the ten minute drive down to the cave. We piled out of the van and practiced repelling on some patches of grass. I hadn't used (or even seen) that type of repel device before, but it was easy enough to get the hang of. We did two trial runs and made our way to the platform over the entrance of the cave. I volunteered to go first and walked out the the platform, linked to the safety rope on the side with my two carabiners. I connected myself to the climbing rope, lowered and twisted myself off the platform and descended into the deep, dark hole. My headlight was on so I could see the rock and limestone around me as I repelled down. The light started to dim from the entrance and I began to smell the damp earth and clay. The whole repel was 35 meters (roughly 115 feet) and as I neared the bottom the guide waiting for me started singing the theme to Mission Impossible. Pretty awesome. I made it to the bottom, unclipped and watched while the next person came down. I walked down the small set of wooden stairs behind me to have a look around. In front of me was a big boulder with, as my guide, Megan, pointed out, fossils in it. There were some shells and a few things that I didn't recognize, but I did recognize the big sand dollar on the front side. Megan told me to turn off my light and look up and I had my first sighting of the glow worms. It's only a worm for a few weeks before it eats enough to make a cocoon and become a two winged fly. But, when it's in it's larval stage, the chemicals it produces mix with the oxygen and make a little green light. This attracts insects that get caught in sticky, web like threads that the worms hang below them (there's a pretty good pic above - they look like little beaded necklaces). Anyway, now that you've had your science lesson, when we all made it into the cave, we walked the short descent to the next section where we connected to a zip lined and flew, in the dark, to the next portion, a thick rock ledge above some flowing water. We all sat down like little school children and got some hot cocoa and a homemade peanut bar for doing such a good job :)
Our next task was jumping off the ledge and into the water on our black, rubber tubes. I managed to lift my feet in time and landed in my tube on top of the water. My whole body went under anyway and the water crept into my wet suit from all sides - neck, arms, legs, everywhere. It was cold. For a little warm up we ran against the current for about ten minutes and stopped every little bit to look at rock formations and close ups of glow worms. After that we got back into our tubes and linked arms to legs to make one long chain. We turned off all our lights and starred sky (ceiling?) ward at all of the glow worms as we floated past. This was, by far, my favorite part. No lights other than the thousands of green specs on the roof of the cave. They were in small and large patches, scattered all over the cave. It was like looking at a narrow strip of sky covered in green stars. It reminds you that life thrives everywhere, even in the depths of a cave.
After floating for a while we were all getting cold, so we got off our tubes and took turns running in the water and having dance parties. We stood in a circle and each person had to pick a move while we all repeated it. I did a weird hopping from one foot to the other (I don't do well on the spot), but, it worked and I was warm again. We got another treat - this time something that tasted like warm lemonade and some Hershey's chocolate. I think they were buttering us up for the deep water just around the corner. It didn't last long, but long enough that my wet suit was completely wet again. Soon, though, we were out of the neck deep water and back to right around knee depth.
We squeezed our way though a little hole and came into a cavern where Megan spotted an eel. She said there were five eels in the cave they saw on a regular basis and they had named each one. I can't remember our eel's name, but Megan wriggled her fingertips in the water and our new friend came to investigate.
The last section was getting back out of the cave and we had to climb up two waterfalls to do it. They weren't gigantic and the guides told us where each hand and foot went sequentially, but we still had to climb up waterfalls to get out! It was too loud to hear anything over the rushing water, so Megan touched one hand and where to put it on the rock, followed by the other hand and then each foot. It was a little slick here and there, but for the most part the hand holds were good and the spots for your feet were big enough to step on comfortably. The picture in the slideshow is the second waterfall. After that it was one curve and about 30 feet to the hole that led us back above ground.
The adventure part was great. So fun! Floating down a cave in complete darkness except for the little green specs of light on the ceiling was, by far, the best part, though!
The Tongariro Crossing, hailed as New Zealand's best day hike, is 19.4 kilometers (12 miles) of scenery straight out of Lord of the Rings (literally - Mount Tongariro is Mount Doom in the movies). The hostel I stayed in had a shuttle, so we caught that at seven and were on the trail by eight. Edel, the cutest, bubbliest Irish girl you've ever met, was staying in the same room the night before, so we ended up hiking together.
Being the "greatest day walk in New Zealand," the trail was very well maintained and people were everywhere. All of this land sits on a series of volcanoes (the last eruption was in November of 2012) so think brown and red and craters and lava rocks. The path from the car park to Soda Springs was a mixture of wooden planks, brown earth and clouds threatened rain all around. No rain ever materialized and we made our along the flat path through the dark colors. We saw Soda Springs at the beginning of the climb and continued up Devil's Staircase. The 200 meter (~ 650 feet) climb was slow for me on my biking legs, but we made it to the top and were rewarded with South Crater, another section of flat before climbing again. This climb was on an exposed ridge with lots and lots of wind. Layers went on, even with the added body heat of climbing, and it was one foot in front of the other as you made your way to the next big boulder that provided a little shelter. This hike can also be done as part of a multi day trek and I felt bad for the people carrying 40 lb. bags on their backs; I had enough trouble not getting blown over without a huge bag that could catch the wind. We reached the top and the turn off for Mt. Tangiriro, the actual Mount Doom. I had planned on hiking this two hour (return) peak, but the way up had been super windy and the fog hadn't lifted yet, so there wouldn't be too many views. I would have done it, just to say I'd been on the top of Mount Doom (Mwa ha ha), but the wind was really, really strong and I didn't want to be fighting it for another two hours. So, we continued on to the Red Crater, the highest point of the track at 1886 meters (~ 6190 feet) and the Emerald Lakes.
I could smell the sulfur before I saw either the Red Crater or the Emerald Lakes. Unfortunately, I passed by the crater with only a glimpse of something red, to my right, through the fog. It wasn't until I was down the other side that the clouds cleared and I got a good view of it. I learned later that the Red Crater has it's particular shape because of the way the magma moved through it - through a vertical channel in the crater wall and then draining out below. It gets the red color from the high temp oxidation of iron.
During our descent to the Emerald Lakes is when the clouds finally started to lift, and we went from being able to tell there was something down there to being in awe of the beauty of these three pools. The pools were a beautiful blue in their own right, but with the contrast of the red and brown earth around them, they stood out that much more. They got their color from the minerals in the active earth below and around them. And then… BOOM - the sun came out! Now we got to see it all - the Red Crater above us, a valley to our right, Blue Lake in a crater to our left and the glistening Emerald Pools in front of us.
We were supposed to rush through the volcanic zone, but that portion contained the Blue Lake, another beautiful body of water and we ooo'd and awww'd just like the rest. From there we started our descent back into the reddish brown terrain and into some yellow grass to the Ketatahi hut. We stopped there (still in the volcano zone) took in the zig zagged trail from where we had come and the greens and blues below us (also a much needed bathroom break). We ended in the forest where we sat at the bottom, took off our shoes and waited for our shuttle back to the hostel. The last picture in the series is one of Mount Doom from the shuttle - for you Lord of the Rings buffs.
I can see why this is called New Zealand's best day hike - a good amount of hiking, but not enough that most people couldn't do it, walking through all sorts of landscape from through craters to below active volcanoes around lakes and emerald colored pools. We got a quick briefing on volcanoes during our shuttle ride there and were told a little about the last eruption in 2012. I looked it up and found a You Tube video (http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/7979461/Panic-on-Mt-Tongariro-as-volcano-erupts) of the Volcano erupting and a bunch of school kids running away screaming "We're all going to die" (nobody died). Pretty funny. I can say that because it didn't erupt while we were there. :)
First time on a mountain bike since I've been out of the country. Yes, it was great and yes, I could tell it had been a while :) The weather was supposed to be too windy for the hike I wanted to do, but good on the lower biking trail, so I went to the Kiwi bike shop shortly after arriving in National Park Village and rented a bike for the next day. They don't rent to solo riders for safety reasons, but, lucky for me, Jack walked in right after I did and then we were two!
The 42 Traverse is an intermediate trail, with some up and down, but not quite as dramatic as the sign above makes it look. It's 46 kilometers (28 miles) and took us about six hours to complete. It used to be a logging road, so it's not the single track of Salt Lake, but the views made up for that. We took a shuttle to the starting point, got the brief run down from the driver and were on our way. The first half hour varied between small ups, downs and flats on a track that ranged from dirt to small pebbles to baseball sized rocks. Being on a new bike, and the break lover that I am, it took a little while to get used to and I slid out on a few of the gravel spots before feeling comfortable with the opposite break system and being on a mountain bike again.
The downhill of the next section was mellow, for the most part, with a few steep descents and a couple river crossings. We made it through the first two without getting wet, but the third crossing was too high (about knee deep) and there weren't any rocks to use as jumping stones. Luckily, it was warm, we were about to start climbing and the wet feet weren't really an issue. This whole time we're surrounded by trees and ferns and shrubs everywhere. There's no where on these mountains that isn't covered in a dense patch of several different shades of green.
The first of the three hills had the most climbing, and by the third one we were at the top before we had really gotten into it. There were short, steep sections here and there (most of which I ended up walking), but the majority of it was a gradual, steady uphill that required some patience, a little endurance and a granny gear. We stopped at the top of each climb, had some snacks and a drink, took in the view around us and swapped stories. Jack's a wine distributor in Switzerland and is visiting a friend in New Zealand while his girlfriend celebrates her 50th birthday in India with yoga, meditation and lots of mud baths and massages. The views were great and the conversation was easy as we talked about everything from what we do at home, the traveling we've done and what our future plans are. Jack's another example of one of those travelers you feel lucky to meet - lighthearted, always smiling and uber positive - so great to be around!
The downhill (luckily for me) was also more mellow than the sign post at the start of the trail would have you believe. There were a few tricky spots, where the bigger rocks came back (and I have a huge bruise on my leg to prove it), but other than those select areas it was nice and flowy. We crossed a few more rivers and then lost the views to the forest, which isn't half bad to look at either, as we got further down.
We got to the bridge and car park and I thought we were done. Nope. One more long, steady uphill on the road. Back into granny gear, game face on and huffed and puffed my way up. Jack waited for me at the top and we coasted into town to call our shuttle from the pub (I swear that's where he told us to wait for him). We got a much deserved celebratory beer, sat outside in the sunshine and congratulated ourselves on the last six hours of biking!
Ice climbing yesterday. Coolest. Thing. Ever.
We started the day with a short hike to the glacier and a short hike on and around the glacier while Dave, our guide, checked out some possible routes. He found a fairly mellow, short stretch and set up two ropes - one for team America/Germany (Mark and I) and one for team Israel (two girls who's names I can't pronounce let alone spell). We tested out our crampons, practiced with the ice picks and got a refresher in how to belay. The crampons were tricky - I kept lifting my heel rather than leaving it parallel to the ground. It's counterintuitive to lower your heel and not lose your balance, at least when your toes are stuck in ice.
The first climb was getting used to everything - belaying or putting the picks and crampons together with scaling an icy wall. It went pretty well, though, and the next time we tried it without the ice picks to become more reliant on out feet and just balance on our finger tips. Then we moved over to the bigger wall on the left. This one was more vertical and higher than the last. We started on a ledge near the bottom, climbed to the left and then went up. This climb was substantially harder than the ones before. My feet didn't slip much on the other two climbs, but here I really had to concentrate on my foot placement and how my crampon entered the ice. I could tell I was using my arms a lot more, too.
Mark and I took turns climbing and belaying. Throw in some lunch and we were happy (and tired) after our four climbs each.
Then, Dave asked if we wanted to get lowered into the hole to the left of where we had been and climb our way out. Ummmm…. ok. How many times in my life am I ever going to get this chance? This time we rappelled in and had to climb out instead of starting at the bottom and climbing up. Being lowered off the top was a little nerve racking, but it was worth it to be surrounded by ice like that. The ice inside was harder and slipperier, so I cheated a little and did some shimmying as well as some ice climbing. The climb up was more of the same - challenging and tiring and awesome. I slipped several times (both my hands and my feet) and took a break about half way up. But, I made it to the top!
We got to hear and see mini rock avalanches the whole time we were on the glacier. It's moving and melting constantly, so the surrounding landscape is also really dynamic. Most of the rocks were TV to couch size, but as we were hiking back down there was a huge rumble (sounds like thunder) and we looked up to see a small house sized boulder making its way down the hill. It wasn't near where we were, but we were close enough to watch and hear it fall.
Another great day in New Zealand :)
New Zealand has nine Great Walks and three start near Te Anau, where I spent a few days, so I decided to do the first day of the Kepler as an out and back. It was the first day in several that wasn't pouring rain, so I was extra excited to head out without the full rain get up! I took one of the free bikes from my hostel and rode about thirty minutes to where the trail started. This trail, being one of the Great Walks and heavily trafficked, was vastly different from the Motatapu - sidewalk sized trail, wooden walkways, lots of people and a hut I'd classify as something closer to a mansion. There were also lots of trees, which were missing on the Motatapu, and less climbing. I was also carrying a daypack instead of my big back pack, so I'm sure that made it seem easy in comparison. The first hour was walking along the lake. Lots of trees and glimpses here and there of a sandy beach on the right. Once the trail split from the lake to the Luxmore Hut, it was about three hours of climbing through forest before reaching the end of the tree line and hiking through the grass (and on wooden planks) on the plateau. After about thirty minutes, you turn the corner to see the Luxmore hut. There was a wood burning stove inside, so I stayed for about thirty minutes to defrost after having no trees to shield me from the wind. There wasn't much of a view on the way up because of the fog, but it started to clear when I left and I got to see the stunning view I'd kept hearing about. The way down wasn't too bad - wide trail and not all that steep, so I made it down in time to make myself some much deserved pizza and snuggle up with my book.
The next day I got up bright and early to do a kayak tour in the Milford Sound. I got into the bus and the driver says "You're the only one that booked the Bowen Breezer Tour today (the only one that was open when I rescheduled two days before so I wouldn't be kayaking in the rain) so it's just you and Keith." Awesome. How often does that happen? We got there and Keith and I set off in our two person kayak. The Doubtful Sound, where I did my overnight cruise, is much larger than Milford, but also less crowded because it's a little harder to get to. Milford is smaller, but that makes it feel a lot more intense - there's islands and cliffs and waterfalls so close to you. I think my favorite difference is that I was lucky enough to see Doubtful Sound in the rain and Milford on a sunny day. Doubtful had waterfalls specifically from that rainfall, mist and fog and this whole ambience of mystery. Milford was stunning and sunny and great for kayaking all day because it was warm and didn't really matter if you got wet. I lucked out to get to see them both under such different circumstances.
We paddled and Keith told me about the trees and the ferns and the birds and more about those awesome tree avalanches. Keith spotted both of the seals we saw, and we paddled over to the rocks to get a closer look. The first one didn't even know we existed. He laid there soaking up the sun while we stopped and watched him. The second one didn't love the company, and went in the water behind us for a dip before going back on the rock as we got farther away. We paddled for about an hour and a half before we turned around, passed the seals again and made our way to the other side of the Sound to check out one of the permanent waterfalls. We landed on the beach and had some coffee (a mocha, actually. I was pretty impressed) before making the five minute walk through the trees behind us to the waterfall. Amazing. So powerful.
We got done a little earlier than the other tours and grabbed lunch at the lodge before Keith had to head out and pick up some other customers. I hung out and wrote postcards (on a beach, staring our into the Sound) while I waited for everyone else. After they got back we piled back into the van and were off. We made a few scenery stops on the way and I got my first introduction to a Kea bird. Up to this point I'd only heard stories about them getting into anything and everything. Apparently they love zippers and rubber. If it's a bag with a zipper, they're going to get into it. Or, if its anything rubber on a car, like the rubber around your windshield, they're going to pick at it until someone shoo's them away or the rubber gives way and the windshield falls in. Mischievious little guys.